Finally, Beaufort

The Big Chill and Great Santini used this locale for their filming.

 

With minimal diversions on this attempt, I finally made it to Beaufort.  One can become discouraged on the big-box sprawl that assaults you upon entrance.  The streets are lined with the usual megastores, fast food joints, outlets and budget motels. Oh no! The usual recipe for gridlock and architectural ugliness. But when you make the ninety degree turn that becomes Carteret Street, it’s like entering a whole new world of slow pace, Spanish moss-lined avenues, gentle breezes, and friendly people. This is the Beaufort Historic District, locally known as “the point.”  It is one of the most beguiling little towns you may ever visit. It’s no wonder “The Big Chill, The Great Santini, Forrest Gump and The Prince of Tides” were all filmed in part here. I parked the bike along the wharf and took the advice of the locals and just wandered the streets on foot.

 I lunched at the Low Country Market and Grille. As I approached the front door a lady told me “the melted cheese and bacon makes you just wanna slap someone silly” in that down home Southern drawl.  I decided to go with her suggestion.  It’s contents are a ton of melted pimento cheese, fried bacon and to bring on the tartness, a spread of some pepper jelly all grilled Panini style.  I’m going to have to put this on the menu at Lake In Wood as it was sublime.

 

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Military College of South Carolina

Every Friday afternoon at 3:45, The Citadel cadets gather in formation for a dress parade on the Quad. I looked forward to seeing this. Why should this interest me? I was recruited by The Citadel while a senior in high school, Conroy’s Lords of Disciplinewas made into a great movie, and it’s just damn impressive. The cadets march out from the barracks in their finery, rolling across the great green lawn of the parade deck in steady, even rows to the sounds of bagpipes with a backing of brass and drums.  This trip was more effort than expected as the temps today didn’t reach 50 so breaking out the leathers was a must. But I wanted to get some shots prior to the cadets leaving for the Thanksgiving holiday.

Rolling through the gates, one can’t help but be  taken in with the Romanesque, grey architecture of the buildings. Doric columns bordering Roman arches are the norm. I was a bit befuddled at seeing so many young men in fatigues with duffel bags at their side. Why weren’t they preparing for the parade as it begin in less than an hour. I parked, removed the leather and entered the plaza through the iron gates. A group of officers were chatting and one came over, seeing my camera and asked if I were an alumni. I told him I was there to photograph the parade. Much to my dismay, there would be no parade. The cadets were leaving today to start the holiday season early. And no parades would be held the remainder of the winter. A bit of a disappointment, yes, but the empty plaza brought back good memories.

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The Road to Ithaka

Some years ago, I was being interviewed by a news reporter for some reason of which I can no longer remember. The young lady asked to elicit the personal philosophy of myself.  I responded with some stolen lines that seemed to become my persona over the years.   I said, “my life is not a linear line of pursuit, but a horizontal exploration from one area of interest to another.”  That may seem right-brained or flighty, random and abstract in not seeking an ultimate goal, totally the antithesis of the American work ethic. But nevertheless, that pretty much sums up who I am.

Emerson said, “Who so would be a man, must be a nonconformist.” I might have adopted that as my mantra, perhaps to a foolish extent. My life is hardly one of the extremes, yet , I hold in high regard the idea of taking the road less traveled, and I occasionally even travel it.  A therapist would likely attribute this to some unresolved issues with a lack of self confidence as a child, being somewhat of a chubby frog. But when I delve into my attitudes in search of what moves me, my conclusion is simply that many of my choices stem from an occasionally fanatical fear of being just one of the herd.

Today, I ventured into the low country in search of of an era gone by. My desire was to visit Beaufort. I’ve became enamored with this place through the written word. I believe I have read everything ever published by author Pat Conroy since my introduction to “The River is Wide”, later made into the movie Conrack, starring a young Jon Voight. But my mode of getting to my point of destination has changed recently. I’m not in the same hurry I once was.  Retirement, age, becoming more learned, has had its positive influences.

While traveling, I thought about a poem I read back in college that rings true. Yes, I can remember prose from some forty years ago,  I just can’t remember where I put my reading glasses several times a day.  It’s called Ithaka and its from a famous Greek poet. You can replace Ithaka with any one of your destinations…..it works. It reads like this:

“Always keep Ithaka in your mind.  Arriving there is your destination.  But don’t hurry the journey at all.  Better if it last many years, and you moor on the island when you are old, rich with all you have gained along the way, not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.”

 

So along the ride my first stop was unexpected, a roadside haunt called the Carolina Cider Co. and advertising my weakness for pie. Yes, ahh, my penchant for pecan.  I had to have some.  I did end up purchasing some pepper jelly along with mustard sauce.

 As for the pecan pie, I can give it no better than a disappointingly D+.  Further along the journey  I cruised upon the Ease Chapel, a black church burnt almost beyond recognition, just down the road from my stop at Penn Center.

Penn Center is the spiritual home of Gullah culture and history.  It was here, in the early 60’s that Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. used this place as a his major retreat and planning sites during the civil rights era.  I stopped and sat among the live oaks and humble but well-preserved buildings, transcending time and remembering my high school days and how my thoughts and ideas of the civil rights movement have matured over the years.  I was sitting among history and I allowed it to sink in for some lengthy moments.  I was both awed and inspired walking the hallowed grounds of history, so much to the point that the afternoon shadows had lengthened beyond my time limit.  It would be dark if I didn’t leave soon.  I had no desire to be lost in the low country after twilight. Beaufort would have to wait another day.  But today, this Penn Center, this Ithaka, has made me richer.

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